At 1,600m, the peak of Mau Son in Lang Son northern border province offers a bewitching view of the surrounding valleys. Through the clouds, visitors can see the rugged countryside of Lang Son, with China to the north, Na Duong to the east, and Dong Dang to the west.
It is this panoramic vista that first attracted the French to Mau Son, which lies some 170km from Hanoi. To take advantage of the mountain’s views of the north-east gateway to China, the French built a military base here at the start of the 20th century. This site’s original inhabitants, members of the Dao ethnic minority group, were moved away from the French settlement. Only authorised personnel were permitted to enter the French base.
Later, French tourists were also welcomed at this hill station. In January 1936, Dr O.Pilot, a student of the famous bacteriologist Dr Alexandre Yersin, visited Mau Son. Some local people say that the doctor first came to Mau Son to collect traditional medicinal plants, which used to be cultivated in this region.
Dr Pilot was so impressed by what he found that he petitioned the northern governor for permission to build tourist villas at the site. In 1936, he got the go-ahead to buy land and start construction. For six or seven years, thousands of local people worked on this project, mining, breaking and carrying stones to build a number of massive villas.
Today, these villas have crumbled to ruins. Blocks of moss-covered stone are scattered throughout the site, and lie among the old foundations, where it’s still possible to identify the houses’ former kitchens, fire place and staircases.
Like Sleeping Beauty, the fairy tale princess placed under a spell, Mau Son has slept, all but forgotten, for almost five decades. Until 1987, motorbikes were not even allowed onto the torturous road that wind, like a snake, up the mountain.
Finally, Mau Son is waking up. Residents of the surrounding area first came to admire the views, followed by visitors from China and lowland Vietnam.
When the French built their villas, they did not imagine a day when Mau Son would be free to welcome all visitors. Today, Mau Son’s residents want to share their home’s secluded beauty with the world. They want tourists to explore the pristine Tam Thanh Cave, shop for woven fabrics in the colourful ethnic minority market, and hike the mountain’s many trails.
In the early 1930s, the only way to reach Mau Son was on horseback. Today, local people still use horses to carry goods up the steep mountain slopes. However, visitors can leave Mau Son by car, driving 30km to Lang Son town from where it will take another six hours to reach Hanoi.
The narrow road twists along steep mountain ridges, offering views of the emerald valleys. Some Dao girls, dressed in festive embroidered clothes, flag the car down for a lift. With their traditional dresses and bright smiles, they are as naturally beautiful as their mountain homeland.
