Spring in Da Bac District (Hoa Binh Province) brings an even more vibrant green to the mountains, while the crystal-clear lake reflects the charming villages. Life flows in a simple yet poetic rhythm, within the traditional stilt houses. Elderly villagers still gather by the fire, reminiscing with pride, nostalgia, and longing.
The poetic beauty of Da Bia Village in Da Bac District, Hoa Binh Province.
In the morning, on a small boat gliding gently past the floating fish farms, visitors are enveloped in an almost surreal feeling, as if stepping into a magical, serene world, where mist lingers in the air. Each gentle ripple on the water seems to awaken distant memories-of a time when the Muong villages thrived in abundance.
The misty landscape of Hoa Binh Lake.
Lo Thi Trang, a young Muong woman, guides visitors across mountain passes and steep slopes, taking them from her Da Bia Village to explore the surrounding region. She shares stories of the lake, once a vast valley where a prosperous Muong Village thrived for generations. When the hydroelectric project was built, the villagers had to relocate. Their large houses on stilts were hurriedly dismantled-some fortunate enough to be rebuilt on new land nearby. During the dry season, when the water is clear and low, traces of the old village can still be seen beneath the lake’s surface. Winding paths and undulating mounds emerge, resembling rice trays and basins, whispering silent echoes of the past.
The lakeside residents engage in both agriculture and cage fish farming.
One unique feature of Da Bac is the "self-service" stall tradition maintained by Da Bia villagers. According to villagers, this practice dates back over half a century, when their community still lived in the valley. Back then, they set up simple stalls made of bamboo and palm leaves deep in the forest. Families with surplus farm products or goods would write the prices on a piece of paper and place it beside the items, sometimes weighing them down with a stone. Next to the goods, they would leave a woven basket for payment. While sellers were away working in the fields all day, buyers would take what they needed and leave the correct amount of money. Remarkably, there was never any loss or misunderstanding.
The "self-service" stall
Born out of hardship, the self-service stall emerged when families had to work far away in the fields, sometimes bringing their children along to rest in makeshift huts. With no one at home to tend a shop, villagers placed complete trust in one another. In recent years, as community-based tourism has flourished, these stalls have become more diverse and visually appealing, catering not only to locals but also to visiting tourists. The tradition remains a beautiful reflection of trust and solidarity among Da Bia villagers.
Local agricultural products are beautifully arranged.
Tourists enjoy traditional cakes, freshly caught fish from the lake, grilled over charcoal and neatly fastened in bamboo clamps.
Grilled fish is among the most beloved dishes for visitors.
According to local accounts, the lake was once a fertile valley, home to the Muong ethnic minority people, where hundreds of spacious five-room stilt houses stood. During harvest season, corn and rice filled the village paths, as songs of gratitude echoed in the new rice celebrations. Though the community relocated for the hydroelectric project, they have steadfastly preserved and nurtured their cultural traditions.
As the mist dissipates, the landscape emerges in crystal-clear hues of deep blue and lush green.
The once-thriving valley has become a vast, reflective lake, mirroring the towering mountains. In spring, the greenery flourishes, bursting with life, while clusters of marigolds along the lakeshore bloom vibrantly, bathed in golden sunlight.
Life for the local people remains challenging, yet it is peaceful and deeply connected to nature.
Even as the morning sun casts its warm glow, the lingering mist gently swirls between the sky and water. The quiet is momentarily broken by the soft splashes of fish vying for food, before flocks of pristine white ducks gracefully leave their floating homes, gliding through the mist towards the shore.
The floating market - a unique tradition of local people.
Occasionally, an early morning market livens up the village as neighbours gather before dawn, chatting excitedly. Each household brings a few goods to sell while also taking the opportunity to buy daily necessities. The market takes place on boats. A large boat serves as a floating general store, carrying essentials, including clothing and household items. The open space near the bow is reserved for villagers to display their goods for sale. Since the nearest town market is nearly 40 kilometres away, the "floating market" has become an essential part of daily life here.
Shrimp from the hydropower reservoir - a local delicacy.
The shrimp from the vast hydropower reservoir is a sought-after specialty, known for its fresh and distinctive flavour. Following the rhythm of the water, the floating market boat docks at a different spot each day, making its rounds across the Da River reservoir before returning on schedule. The elderly in the village still recall how children would eagerly await market day, hoping to receive a few coins from their parents to buy fried cakes or sweet candies. For the older generation, even when they do not need anything, they still look forward to the market. Slowly making their way onto the large boat, they enjoy watching the lively scene.
A cozy corner of a local home.
In Da Bac, many households have transformed their houses into homestays. Others in the village contribute to tourism development in various ways including joining culinary teams, performing traditional music, offering motorbike taxi services, or working as local guides. Visitors can enjoy a diverse range of experiences, from hands-on farming activities and traditional folk performances to herbal baths, bamboo rafting, cycling, mountain trekking, and even kayaking. Tourism has breathed new life into the Muong Village, making it more vibrant and full of charm.
Kayaking is a favourite activity for visitors
The Muong ethnic group has many unique customs, including distinct burial practices. The final resting places of the departed are often adorned with lime trees, chili plants, herbs, and medicinal plants-chosen based on the preferences of the deceased. Large household structures such as livestock pens or fish rafts, if not recreated in full scale, are meticulously crafted into detailed miniature models. In this way, even as the departed rest beneath the earth, the trees and symbolic objects continue to tell their life stories to the living.
A simple yet heartfelt meal for visitors
The Muong cuisine carries a distinct identity, rich in flavours and traditions. However, capturing its essence in full detail is no simple task. If one were to choose the most memorable dish, visitors would likely mention banh net, a humble cake made from corn or cassava. This dish, deeply tied to the Muong people's life, was originally a staple during the seasons when food supplies were scarce. Despite its simplicity, crafted only from corn or cassava flour, banh net embodies the Muong women’s resourcefulness, patience, and delicate skills.
The identity of the Muong People - Au Ta branch
On a spring afternoon, from the steps leading to each house, Muong women busily pour rice wine into large jars while keeping a watchful eye on their cooking and household chores. Around them, a few sleek-feathered chickens peck lazily at scattered grains, moving as if intoxicated by the lingering aroma of the fermenting brew.
Dreamy sunset by the lake.
Even after leaving, visitors still vividly remember the sloping steps infused with the warmth of rice wine. A step forward leads to the main house, while a step downward leads to the village path. Sitting still by the flickering fire and gazing ahead, one can see through the dirt road and into the vast expanse of the Da River reservoir, where morning mist and evening haze linger like an unspoken memory.
Floating fish farms amidst the poetic spring landscape.
In conversations with visitors, the locals no longer mention the valley that once was. Instead, they simply say, "We are people who have risen from the heart of the lake". These words carry a quiet resilience-perhaps an acceptance of the past, or perhaps, a deep sorrow tucked away, too precious to let spill into daily life. It is a hopeful way to move forward together.
Mai Lu - Translated by NDO
