One of the most pristine areas within two hours of Ha Noi is Luon Cave, a great destination for one-day travellers. It has all the features – mountains, water, forests, views – except for one: conservation.
It’s only two hours by car from Ha Noi to one of most beautiful places in the north - Luon Cave in Ha Nam Province. Water in the cave comes from the nearby Day River. The whole site is a harmonious combinaion of mountains, water and forests - and stalactites in a myriad of shapes. A one-day trip is bound to leave memories for life.
From Phu Ly Town, the province’s centre, you travel 11km along National Road No 21. The cave is on the left, 500m from the highway. In front of the cave there is a magnificent view over a valley surrounded by mountains and forests.
According to a local resident, Dinh Van Thuan, thousands of years ago, the cave was apparently high and dry, but a branch of the nearby Day River overflowed into the cave system about 200 years ago. This is why the locals now also call the cave Dong Thuy (Water Cave).
Tourists thread their way through the sinuous, 400m long cave between stalactites hanging from the ceiling. Locals are always ready to carry people through for a few thousand dong - depending on the generosity of passengers.
Boatmen or women skilfully propel the craft with a long pole as visitors contemplate the beauty of the cave by flashlight. Sometimes, the waterway narrows down from 10m to just a couple of metres. Stalactites form endless shapes that stretch the imagination - as do the thousands of bats that flutter around.
At the cave exit you will find a large pool of water known as Rong (Algae) Pond, where many species of algae grow. But the water is so clear it’s easy to see schools of fish swimming around.
On the other side of the pond is a second, much shorter cave also filled with water. In front of it, the water forms a large natural swimming pool that many tourists enjoy. Floating devices are available to tourists, free of charge. Swimming in the open air between hills and caves offers a rare feeling of relaxation. The second cave is no less enjoyable than the first, but it’s a blind alley. Boats have to do a "U" turn to exit.
Apart from scenery, Luon Cave is historically significant. In the first century, it is believed to have been a military base used by Le Chan, a woman general under the Hai Ba Trung sisters, Trung Trac and Trung Nhi.
When the two queens lost a battle to Chinese invaders, Chan mustered her troops waiting for an opportunity to retaliate. "From a military point of view, Luon Cave surrounded by mountains and rivers would have been an ideal, secret base for soldiers," said Chu Duc Tho, a local Party official. "Luon Cave would have provided shelter and a convenient base for attack and defence."
Folk cultural researcher Le Huu Bach, said the cave system was used as a base by general Nguyen Huu Cau, who rose up against the feudal court of the Le King and Trinh Lord in the 18th century. While collecting material for two books of local folk stories, he found that Luon Cave was the last shelter of Cau’s army. Hundreds of Cau’s soldiers were killed in a boat battle in the cave.
Inside, under the stalactites, there is a long rampart of earth that is now partly submerged. It divides a section of the cave into two parts, that some researchers presumably once used to hide soldiers.
The cave system preserves traces of even more history. Many round stone mortars for grinding seeds have been discovered. And one local, Chu Van Luu, once found an ancient iron sword 70cm in length. He told local authorities about his find, but until now, no researcher has visited him to try and find out how old it is.
"I will hand over the antique to a museum to study with pleasure," he said, "This should be done to recognise the historical value of the site." Many others in the adjacent Lien Son Commune have found drums, swords and lance-heads while fishing.
The truth about Luon Cave’s history is still far from clear, but there is enough tantalising evidence that it should be studied and protected for both tourism and research.
But there is more to worry about. Despite being a leading tourist attraction, the hills around the caves are being mined to provide rock and stone for buildings and roads. It seems that the visual and historical importance of the cave and its beautiful surroundings have not been realised.
Researcher Bach said Luon Cave with its various legends had nurtured his soul since childhood. "Because of personal profit, people can destroy the site’s surrounding," he said. "If they are not stopped, the cave system, ponds and environment may be seriously affected."
He suggested that the area should become a protected environmental reserve and regulations put in place to protect its charm.
Director of the Ha Nam Provincial Museum, Mai Khanh, agreed. "We can’t destroy a beauty spot that has taken nature thousands of years to create just for short-term profit," he said.
"It’s not too late. Beside stopping the exploitation of local stone, the authorities should plant trees around the cave site."
Tho backed by officials from the local Lien Son commune, have lobbied the provincial People’s Committee. It has decided not to extend the licences of companies quarrying stone around Luon Cave. It has also sent surveyors to draw up plans to preserve the site.
With this amount of local support and interest, it is starting to look likely that the cave system will be saved - and that the rebeautification of the mined area will eventually be restored.