Located on a low hill by the Thuong River, over 10 kilometers from the center of Bac Giang city, Sau village in Lien Chung commune, Tan Yen district retains its ancient charm.
The village stands as a living testament to northern Vietnam’s traditional architecture, with wooden houses, earthen walls, and moss-covered tile roofs, nestled among tall bamboo groves.
Giap Hung Phan's house.
Sau village today offers a glimpse into the rustic beauty of rural life in northern Vietnam decades ago.
As we ventured deeper into the village, narrow winding alleys led us through a landscape of old homes separated by brick or earthen walls, all draped in vibrant bougainvillea and morning glories.
Nguyen Van Thang, the village head, enthusiastically took us to the house of Giap Hung Phan, who owns one of the finest traditional houses in the village.
Phan’s house is a five-room wooden structure with rough brick walls left unplastered, and a dark brown-tiled roof.
Giap Hung Phan (left) introduces the "phoenix" carvings on the gable of his house.
The yard and steps are made of red ceramic bricks, and two side wings serve as the kitchen and storage rooms. Situated on the hillside, the house enjoys a panoramic view and ample natural light.
Phan welcomed guests with a warm smile and offers tea in his elegant living room, furnished with a glossy wooden set of chairs. As he brewed the tea, we had a chance to admire the intricate carvings adorning the wooden beams of the house.
The craftsmanship of the past is evident in every detail, with delicate patterns carved with precision and finesse. In the center of the house is the worship space, with an altar flanked by couplets and horizontal lacquered boards bearing religious inscriptions.
To either side, there are rooms for guests, sleeping, and storage. The house is regarded as the most beautiful in the village, particularly because of the four "Four Seasons" paintings - intricately carved depictions of "Spring," "Summer," "Autumn," and "Winter," displayed above the gables.
After bidding farewell to Phan, we visited the house of Nguyen Thi Ta. Her house is similar in structure to Phan’s but with simpler yet still meticulously crafted wood carvings.
Inside, the home retains a classic set of wooden chairs, tea cabinets, a worship altar, and decorative couplets. Ta shared that the house was originally purchased by her late father-in-law from a family in Bo Ha.
The house, which had been passed down for over a century, was transported by boat along the Thuong River to Sau village long before Ta became part of the family.
According to village head Thang, Sau village consists of 186 households with over 800 residents. Today, around 20 traditional wooden houses remain, with many originally brought from Yen The district or neighbouring provinces.
Over time, the younger generations have renovated the houses, replacing the earthen walls with brick and ceramic. Many have even sought out new wooden houses to restore the village's nostalgic atmosphere.
Thang proudly states that with the support of the Government and the contributions of the villagers, Sau village has made significant progress in infrastructure.
In the past decade, over 30 kilometers of roads within the village have been paved with concrete, and the villagers have donated land and billions of VND to build a community center and sports facilities, and to restore cultural landmarks.
Sau villagers and their traditional houses.
The newly renovated Hoa Binh Market has become a vital space for local farmers to sell their agricultural products.
Sau village’s garlic and onion have become signature crops, cultivated on a model farm spanning 18 hectares. Many households now also produce Danh mountain ginseng.
The village's iconic Nem Nuong Lien Chung (Lien Chung grilled pork sausage) has earned recognition as a 4-star OCOP (One Commune Once Product) product, now sold across the country.
Under the district’s planning, Lien Chung commune is expected to become an eco-tourism and community tourism hub. Therefore, State support for preserving the traditional wooden houses in Sau village is vital for developing local tourism.
The Dai