As one of the oldest and most holy sites in Vietnam, the peaceful temple complex of Den Soc makes a great getaway from the bustle of Hanoi.
Sat at the foot of the Soc Mountains and just an hour’s drive from Hanoi, Den Soc is an oasis of quiet and peace. Blessed by three natural lakes and bequeathed a large reservoir, the site has been religiously important since the 10th Century due to its connection to one of Vietnam’s most famous folk-heroes.
The temples here worship Phu Dong Thien Vuong, known more colloquially as Thanh Giong, a semi-mythical figure who defeated the Chinese. Legend has it that Thanh Giong grew from a child into a man in a matter of days by feasting voraciously on rice, then ousted the Chinese using his bamboo sword. The temple complex commemorating him and Vietnam’s victory was erected sometime around AD980, making it a viable candidate for the much abused adjective “ancient”.
Today, visitors can walk among these temples, pray to Thanh Giong and generally soak up the ambience of the area. Anywhere at the foot of the mountain makes a great picnic spot, but those feeling a bit more athletic can climb the steps to the top of the mountain. In 2010, an impressive statue to Thanh Giong was erected here as part of the 1,000-year Thanh Long — Hanoi celebrations. It’s quite a climb, but affords some great views of the surrounding countryside. If you haven’t got the legs, then there is also a well-paved, though un-signposted road to the summit.
During Tet, Den Soc also hosts one of the country’s biggest festivals. On the sixth, seventh and eighth days of the Lunar New Year, it becomes an explosion of colour, religion and tradition. Big crowds, processions and even an amusement park for kids appear as if from nowhere. At other times of the year, guests tend to be in the form of school trips bused in from Hanoi. They climb the mountain, are taught the religious and mythological significance of the place, recount their achievements for the year, make resolutions and even listen to Vina-house while playing tug-of-war. Other visitors are worshippers, daytrippers and the occasional foreigner.
Teaching Buddha
Due to the area’s long religious significance, there are a variety of other temples and pagodas dotted around the mountain, and it is the site of northern Vietnam’s Institute of Buddhism.
One of the most spectacular nearby pagodas is Chua Non Nuoc. Administered by the Buddhism Institute, the structure became home to Vietnam’s largest indoor Buddha in 2001. Towering a good 6.5 meters over those who visit, and weighing an astonishing 30 tons, the statue is not to be sniffed at. The pagoda itself is exquisitely composed of huge lim wood columns and in many places is beautifully carved. Perhaps more impressive, however, are the plans on display for a new building for the Buddhism Institute. Designed by architects in Beijing, the model is a breathtaking structure of rooftop gardens and relaxing water features stemming from a central lotus bud-shaped building. In any country in the world the structure would be an architectural dream. Sadly, that looks like all it will ever be as the plans are presently masked by a six-year layer of dust.
The present building for the Buddhism Institute is a massively imposing structure with none of the Feng Shui properties that make its dream replacement so remarkable. Here more than 2,000 students are studying four-year courses. All prospective monks must have high school diplomas and pay tuition fees of VND1.5million per year. After their daily lectures, the monks head to Chua Non Nuoc for meditation in front of the massive statue. Visitors will find students all over the complex, shuffling off to classes, whispering with friends, working on their laptops and looking sheepish in front of strangers.
Unfortunately, this is one trait that both the Den Soc complex and buildings administered by the Buddhism Institute share. Trying to talk to the monks, or any authority figures nearby can leave you feeling a bit like a white man in Bangkok — suspect. Regardless, the site’s millennium of history, religion and culture makes Den Soc an ideal spot for a day out of the city. The opportunity to climb a mountain, have a picnic and explore old temples is just an hour’s ride away.
Getting There
Cross Thanh Long Bridge and follow the road north past the airport until you get to a T-junction. Turn left towards Phu Lo and continue till another T-junction offers you the opportunity to turn left again towards Thai Nguyen City. Around 44km before the city you’ll find a signposted left turn to Den Soc.